Steve House
Reinhold Messner called Steve House “the best high-altitude climber in the world today.” But for Steve, climbing is about process, not achievement. He says, “The moment your mind wanders from the climbing at hand will be the moment you fall.” Steve has earned Messner’s praise by leading the charge to climb bigger routes, from the Himalaya’s to the Canadian Rockies, faster and with less equipment than anyone before. He is the author of two books: Beyond the Mountain and Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete (cowritten with Scott Johnston). In 2012, Steve and his wife Eva cofounded Alpine Mentors a non-profit organization to mentor young climbers to safely become better alpinists.
Steve House joins forces with coach Scott Johnston and athlete Kílian Jornet to develop a comprehensive approach to finding the joy and the payoff of intense training. Even lunges.
Like the rest of the world’s climbing community, we at Patagonia are deeply saddened by the death of renowned Swiss climber and mountaineer Ueli Steck on April 30, 2017, in Nepal. Below, alpinist Steve House remembers his friend. “There are dreams that are worth a certain amount of risk.”—Ueli Steck Ueli was, and always will be,…
On March 25, 2010, nearly two years ago now, I was climbing the north face of Mount Temple when a hold broke and I fell some eighty-feet. Far enough to break my ribs in 20 places and my pelvis twice. As I lay on the ledge near my partner, Bruce, I quickly got very very…
Sitting on a warm piece of granite in front of a crystal-clear stream, Steve House called this morning on his way out from Makalu towards Kathmandu. The news you'll hear is both positive and somber. Everyone Steve traveled and climbed with are all safe and healthy. Unfortunately, he and Marko were asked to assist another…
Steve House called today and shared the latest news from Makalu. He and fellow Patagonia ambassador Marko Prezelj finished their acclimatization and spent some time on the west face where the weather didn't cooperate all that well. But the forecast is improving slightly so the duo are going to head back to ABC and give…
Editor’s note: Patagonia ambassadors Steve House and Marko Prezelj are back at Makalu. Longtime Cleanest Line readers will recall their previous attempt to climb Makalu’s West Face in 2008 with Vince Anderson, and Steve’s subsequent trip in 2009 when he made an emergency solo decent from 21,300 ft. with High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Similar to…
In 2005, Marko Prezelj and I planned an expedition to the (still) unclimbed north wall of Kalanka, a formidable 21,000 foot peak in the Indian Himalaya. With three weeks to go, the bureaucrats who hold the key to that fine mountain threw up one final hurdle, a second permit fee to be paid to the…
I’ve been home from Makalu almost two weeks now and it’s been almost three weeks since I last posted — time flies. I was able to leave base camp very quickly because Cory Richards injured his knee in the deep snow just a few hours from base camp, the day after my last call. He…
Just as he predicted, Steve House and Cory Richards were not able to summit Makalu via the normal route. The same snow storm that collapsed the kitchen in base camp has halted their progress at approximately 20,000 feet. Listen to Steve House – Makalu, May 29, 2009(mp3 – 2:30 – right-click to download) This is…
[Makalu base camp after the storm, May 2009. Photo: Cory Richards] In today's call from Makalu, Steve House describes a tropical storm that dropped 36 inches of wet snow in 36 hours on base camp. The weight of the snow was enough to collapse their cook tent. Undeterred and with time running out, Steve is…
Today Steve House makes good on his promise to call from camp 2 on the normal route of Makalu. From the first few heavy breaths to his attempt at simply walking 10 feet, this call will give you a pretty good sense of what it's like to be at 24,300 feet, in top physical shape,…
After last week's scary call it was great to hear a spry sounding Steve House on the voicemail this morning. He recovered well from his bout with HAPE and will be heading up to camp 2 on Makalu's normal route tomorrow. Have a listen and you'll hear about the healing atmosphere of a yak pasture,…
[The proud west face, October 2008. "My goal for this trip is to assessthe feasibility of a route out of the upper most (right hand) ice fieldin the center-right of this face. The top of the top ice field is about7,400 meters. I hope to get there and touch the headwall." Photo: ©Steve House] Steve…
With his sat. phone all repaired, Steve House called from Makalu base camp last Thursday. Then it was our turn for technical difficulties here in Ventura. Now that everything's up and running again we're happy to share Steve's first phone update from the base of Makalu's West Face, the fifth highest peak in the world.…
Editor's note: After an unsuccessful attempt last year due to foul weather, Steve House is heading back to Makalu for some more reconnaissance and possibly another alpine-style attempt at the west face. Steve sent the following email yesterday from the halfway point on the nine-day trek to Makalu base camp. Rock climbers and boulderers attempt…
The last time Steve House called from Makalu base camp in Nepal, we heard that strong winds had kept he, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj from even starting up the West Face. It was a major disappointment after all the team went through to get to the mountain. But that’s not the end of the…
Steve, Vince and Marko spent last night at the base of the wall but returned to base camp this morning due to extremely strong winds. Attempting Makalu’s West Face in less than ideal conditions is one thing, attempting it in a storm of flying rocks and ice chunks is just not smart. Steve House shares…
As promised, Steve House called again just before leaving base camp for the West Face. This is an interesting call because the revised weather forecast isn’t as good as the team expected. Download or click the link to hear Steve explain. Listen to Makalu Update 7 (mp3 – 2:18 – right-click to download) Good luck…
With a little over a week left at base camp, everyone on the team is feeling healthy and optimistic about attempting their main objective. Weather is still an issue but the team’s meteorologist, Jim Woodmencey at mountainweather.com, says a window is coming soon. In today’s sat-phone report, an excited Steve House talks about the weather…
Two Makalu trip updates for you today, one from Steve and one from Vince. First up is Steve House calling in from the sat phone. He might not sound so hot but his illness is getting better: Listen to Makalu Update 4 (mp3 – 5:35 – right-click to download) And here’s the email Vince Anderson…
No call from Hi, We are all settled in base camp now. All of our equipment finally arrived. We are at 18,500 ft. Steve is still ill with a cough though seems to be getting better. Marko and I hiked up a small peak behind camp that is about 20,500 ft. We will continue to…
What do you do when the helicopter you booked is suddenly grounded with engine failure? You repack everything, get as close to the mountain as possible and haul ass on foot. In today’s sat phone update from Nepal, Steve House describes how the Makalu trip almost ended in disaster, and he shares some tips on…
Steve House called last night to give us another update from Nepal. The team has been trekking at altitude for a few days now to help with the acclimatization process. Listen to Makalu Update 2 (mp3 – 6:43 – right-click to download) As Steve mentioned in his first call, two friends from Oregon, Ian and…
Editor’s note: Today we have the first entry in another series of posts chronicling a major climb by Steve House. Steve, along with fellow Patagonia ambassadors Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj, will be attempting the unclimbed West Face of Makalu come September. They received grant funding from the Mugs Stump Award, American Alpine Club and…
A big CONGRATULATIONS goes out to Patagonia Ambassador Zoe Hart who just passed her Ski Mountaineering Guide’s exam to earn her IFMGA mountain guide credential! This makes Zoe the fourth American woman to earn her IFMGA, or International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations, status. This is the highest level of credential available by a professional…
In March I went up to the Canadian Rockies, one of my favorite mountain ranges, and spent a few weeks doing some winter climbing. What was most exciting about this season was that there was so much climbing activity. Lots of locals doing lots of cool new routes and new variations. But what was missing…
Jeanne Young and I just returned from a rock climbing trip near Bariloche, Argentina. Beautiful alpine rock climbing. It’s a five-hour hike into a lake basin where there is free camping and a hut. We ate dinner (and drank red wine) at the hut each night, camped out on the opposite side of the lake,…
Steve House is home from Pakistan now, but before getting on his flight in Islamabad he made one last call to close out his trip and introduce us to a special guest. In this last update we get to hear from Mr. Saad Tariq Siddiqi, the Honorable Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan. You’ll…
Steve House took the time to make one last call amidst the hustle and bustle of packing up base camp and organizing 30 porters. It’s a little rough around the edges but the sentiment is appreciated. Listen to Steve House Update 11 (mp3) Thanks again to Steve for taking us along for the ride. Previous…
Today we have a double-shot from Steve House. Apologies for not posting Update 9 sooner. In it Steve share’s Marko’s assessment of the weather, and he describes the Sierra-style climb that was mentioned in the last update, including the surprise they found at the top of it. Listen to Steve House Update 9 (mp3) Then,…
As promised, Steve House called in again with a quick update from the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan. It sounds like the weather has been bad enough to put the kibosh on K6 West. On the upside, the team is hoping to get out for a Sierra-style rock climb that Steve describes in this update. Listen…
If you’ve been following the sat phone updates from Steve House here on The Cleanest Line you know that he, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj recently summited the previously unclimbed West Peak of K7 in Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley. Today we present a complete recap of the climb as told by Steve House. It’s tales like…
While the rest of us were barbequing, sitting in traffic or off on an adventure of our own, Steve House, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj successfully climbed the west summit of K7. Check out Steve’s short update from this morning and stay tuned for a more detailed account of the climb coming soon. Listen to…
In this report from the Charakusa Valley, Steve House gives us an excellent description of K7’s features and explains how the team must find a way through the granite buttresses surrounding the base in order to get up on the mountain. Steve also talks about a special lunch they shared with the Colorado and Quebec…
Steve House called again last night from the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan. As you know, he, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj have been acclimatizing for first ascents of the west faces of both K6 and K7. It was mostly high-fives and happy times until this report came in. Mother Nature brought some intense weather to…
I’ve changed the title of this series because in this week’s sat phone update Steve House clarifies that he, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj are actually gunning for new routes on both K6 & K7. Steve also talks about finishing up the acclimatization process, the two new routes they’ve climbed already, and surprisingly he brings…
